I have read and agree to Privacy Statement and Terms of Use. Optitex solutions. Stay Ahead of the Game with a Strong Recruitment Tool Preparing your students for the competitive fashion industry and equipping them with an exceptional skillset, making them key players in every fashion house across the globe is feasible with the right tech tools that are both easy to use and easy to teach.
Set your students up for success. Online Training The software solutions offered by Optitex are very intuitive. Compatible with External Hardware Optitex is both easy to use and easy to integrate in your classroom as it is fully compatible with external cutters and plotters, and even has the ability to work with body scanners.
Case Studies - Educational Institutions. Fashion Atelier, Italy Learn more. Case Studies - Industry Leaders. Roberto Cavalli, Italy Learn more. Add or remove different types of notches, create darts, add seam allowances pleats and buttons and view everything on screen as you are working. Add, move or delete points of a pattern, or move entire section of a pattern to quickly lengthen or shorten pieces.
And obtaining measurement has never been easier. Whether youre measuring vertically, horizontally, diagonally or between pattern pieces, OptiTexs measuring tool is as easy to use your own tape measure. OptiTex Makes grading pattern pieces quick, simple and automatic is just as interactive as the editing process. Grade any pattern, point by point or globally according to previously stored rules. OptiTex enable you to witness the results immediately on screen. With OptiTex , its easy to create your own rule libraries, add new rules or remove old ones.
You can even grade internals such as notches, dart, pleats, buttons and lines. When it comes to marker making, OptiTex provides both manual and automatic nesting capabilities to help you design markers quickly and efficiently.
In addition, OptiTex gives you the flexibility to change order quintets, substitute size, change marker dimensions and additional patterns to your marker from other styles. Match your pattern piece to specific locations on your striped, plaid or printed materials. With the extensive training and knowledgeable technical support services we offer, we are confident you will find OptiTex to be most users Friendly production tool you have experienced.
Thank you choosing OptiTex. How to Use This Book This manual is design to mirror your computer interface. The chapters are based on the pull down menus and tool icons. To find information in this book, use the index, table file, which allows you to view, print or save pertinent information.
The remainder of this chapter is dedicated to explaining the different training and technical support services SGS offer. Lastly, we offer complete installation directions with pictures. Feel confident knowing that you not only purchased the most complete software package for computerized pattern design, grading and marker making, but also that SGS will continue to support you in every way we can.
If the Security lock becomes defective it will be replaced, but only after it has been returned to SGS. If you must return the security lock, the package should be insured. Registration Before you begin, send in the Product Registration card to register yourself as an owner of OptiTex. This card can be faxed or mailed to the address on the card.
As a registered owner, youll be informed of updates, upgrades and training seminars; youll be on the mailing list for technical bulletins and product information. Below are the operational support services available to you as a Registered OptiTex user. If you are having problems printing or plotting, for example, technical support will assist you.
When calling for technical support, please be at your computer with the following information: OptiTex Version Number. OptiTex Security Lock listed on the lock.
Detailed description of the problem, including exact wording of any error messages. Installing OptiTex Before you run the installation program for OptiTex, make sure your computer meets the minimum requirements to run the software. Install the OptiTex Software. Configure your Plotter. Turn your computer off. Remove any cable or Security Lock which may be connected to your printer LPT1 the printer port is a female slot at the rear panel of your computer.
This number will be necessary when calling for Technical Support and is required on the Product Registration Card.
Plug anything, which was previously attached to the printer into the back end of the OptiTex Security Lock. Lock make sure the printer is properly grounded.
If it is not grounded correctly, the printer can short out your Security Lock. Note: SGS does not guarantee that its copy protection and software are compatible with all kind of computers. The installation screen will display on the screen automatically. Select Install Optitex 8. In the first screen select the installation language. Click NEXT.
Select the Optitex language. The destination directory dialog box will be displayed. Click Browse button to select a different path. Click Next. The program will begin installing the files to the selected drive and directories. After the installation is complete, a dialog box will display thanking you for installing the latest version of SGS software.
To open PDS or Mark, double click on the correct icon. You must restart you computer after first OptiTex installation no need to restart it if you upgrade the existing OptiTex software. You must set up your communication parameters, configure the plot manager, and use the plotter setup command in the File menu.
You can use the plot manager of your choice. OptiTex supplies you with OutMan output manager which supports different standard and non-standard plotters as well as OCC.
The OutMan uses Windows communication routines and has its own Queue of file to plot. Set Up Communication Parameters You must first set up the communication parameters for the Com port to which your plotter is connected there is no need to configure parallel port. Refer to your plotters manual to find its particular communication parameters. Note: It is absolutely necessary to setup the communication parameters for the Com port to which your plotter is connected.
This way all users can share the plotter. Do not load the Output manager on stations without a plotter connected. The OutMan installation will copy all relevant files to your disk and place the OutMan icon in your Startup group.
OutMan displays a complete review of the file being plotted, including the amount of paper left on the roll and other useful information. You must perform the following steps for each plotter you will be using.
On the station connected to the plotter, double click the OutMan icon. The OutMan dialog box will be displayed. In the Out Man dialog box select the Communication command in the Options menu. The Communication dialog box will then be displayed. Select the proper communication port and set the correct communication parameters for it. Stop Action Stop Action command is used to stop the current plot job.
Exit Exit command is used to close the output manager. Communication Used to set up the port, baud rate, data bits, parity, stop bits, flow, and protocol. Working Units Allows you to choose the working unit of your choice: mm, cm, inches, or feet. Font Allows you to change the font size and type. About Displays information about the version of software. The OCC supports plotters in local computer or on any other computer on your network. OCC Output Control Center is a 32 Bit application, native to windows, and it's main usage is for arranging a queue to plotters.
OCC can control all kind of output devices, regardless of how they are connected to your computer. The following document comes to explain to you how to use this application. The first one is the "Plotters and Queue window" and the second one is the "Jobs and Info.
In queue" The Toolbar is made of buttons which are always the same. Make Job Ready Making a plot job ready, and sending to plot Hold Job Leaves the job in the queue in order to plot it later. Restart Job Use this button to restart a stuck job or a job you want to re-print it. You can also "restart" jobs that are already done and are in the done folder of the selected plotter. Delete Job Removes the plot job from the queue.
Move Up Move the job one level up in the queue. Move Down Move the job one level down in the queue. Move to Top Move the job to the top of the list. Move to Bottom Move the job to the bottom of the list. Pause Job Pausing the plot job, may be resume at any time. Abort Job Aborts the plotting job, but leaves it on the queue. The Plotter Setup dialog appears: Press the "ADD" button, to add a new plotter Choose the way the plotter is connected and press "Next" If your plotter is connected directly to your computer, choose "My computer" And if it's a plotter that's connected to another computer on your network, choose "Network computer".
Choose the way the plotter is set. Choose the port LPT,COM or File , Choose if you want to print to Lectra, Gerber or Standad plotting protocol, and choose the data bits, stop bits, parity and baud rate as they are in your plotter's manual. In your plotter manual you should also have the switches communication parameters for your specific plotter. After setting up everything press on the "Next" button. In the plotter name dialog, write the name of your plotter or any name you want and choose a path where you want to keep your queue files file to plot , and then press on Finish.
If you want other people on your network to be able to plot with your plotter, you have check the "Shared Plotter" box. In the new window you can see your plotters, and the name of the computer that they are connected to. On the lower part of this window, you can see which plotter is the Default one, If you want to change the default plotter, all you have to do is to click once on the plotter you want to make as default and then press on the "set Default" button.
When you're satisfied with your plotter settings press the "Close" button, to get into the main window of the OCC application again. Chapter 2: Icons and Tool Bars The Tools Tools are small icons or pictures that represent different features within the software.
Tools are displayed across the top of the screen in bars rows located below the pull down menus and above the piece bar. Note: Toolbars may vary in appearance and number of available tools on each Toolbar based on software modules that were purchased.
For example, the Advanced Toolbar may have fewer icons if the Custom Fit software module was not purchased. This section covers all tolls on all Toolbars. Toolbars may be viewed on the screen, or they may be hidden from view. When all Toolbars are displayed, the size of the working area is reduced. To control the display of Toolbars on the screen, use the Toolbars command in the View menu. To display a particular Toolbar on the screen, place a check mark next to the name of the Toolbar.
To hide a particular Toolbar, uncheck the name of the Toolbar. To check or uncheck a selection, click on the name of the Toolbar in the Toolbar menu. Toolbars toggle from on to off each time the mouse clicks on the name of the Toolbar.
Click on Customize. Click on New. Name the new toolbar. Click OK. The toolbar will display under the Toolbars tab and on the working screen.
Select the Tools tab. On the right, the buttons are displayed for the highlighted toolbar on the left. Select the button to be placed in the new toolbar. A description of that button will display at the bottom of the dialog box.
Click and drag the button from the dialog box to the new toolbar on the working screen. Lift the mouse button to drop the button into the toolbar. Repeat this until all desired buttons are placed in the toolbar. To Reset a Toolbar: Resetting a toolbar replaces any buttons that were taken out of a default toolbar. From the View menu, select Tool Bars. Highlight the desired toolbar. Click Reset. Click Close.
Note: The Reset command changes to the Delete command when a customized toolbar or a Template toolbar is highlighted. To Create a Template Toolbar: A Template Toolbar is a toolbar in which the buttons are pattern pieces, which can be stretched to a desired length and width. Exit PDS. Open PDS. The Template will be added to the bottom of the Toolbar list. Engaging a Tool Clicking once on the tool activates most tools.
The cursor changes from the normal pointer an arrow to another type of pointer that coincides with the selected tool. For example, when the Walk tool is activated, the normal pointer turns into a cross hair line with two small feet. The two small feet remind the user that the walk feature is currently activated. Disengaging a Tool Returning to the normal arrow pointer disengages a tool.
To return to the normal arrow pointer, either click on the tool that looks like an arrow, or click the right mouse button, and select the first option in the pop up menu, Select Tool using the left mouse button. Selecting another tool from one of the Toolbars also disengages tools currently in use. Grading Toolbar. The Grading Toolbar consists of tools that are directly related to the grading commands in the Grading pull down menu. These commands are also covered in the Grading chapter.
Previous Point Use Previous Point to select the next grading point in the counterclockwise direction from the currently selected grading point. This tool eliminates using the mouse to select grading points. After clicking on the Copy Grading tool, the X and Y grading increments are copied to the clipboard and remain on the clipboard until another item is copied.
Typically, the Copy Grading tool is used as the first step in pasting grading increments from one point to another.
Opposite grading refers to grading increments that reverse in the negative or positive direction. A check mark next to Relative in the Grading menu indicates that the Relative option is activated.
The Paste Relative icon appears highlighted when activated. Select the point where the same X and Y grading increments are desired and then click the Paste Grading tool. After clicking on the Paste Grading tool, the X and Y grading increments are pasted on to the selected point. Typically, the Paste Grading tool is used as the second step for pasting grading increments from one point on to another. This command is used after the Copy Grading command.
This command eliminates tedious and repetitive typing. Move the cursor to the top of the X column in the grading table. Click the cursor with the left button one time to highlight the entire X column in black.
F4 key on the keyboard to activate all grading. Move the cursor to the top of the Y column in the grading table. Click the cursor with the left button one time to highlight the.
All sizes are now equally graded. This command is commonly used to remove grading from a particular point. If selecting multiple points, drag the arrow in the clockwise direction from the first point to the last point. For example, if a marker is imported that contains a mens shirt style including sizes S, M, and L, all the pieces are imported into SGS OptiTex software as separate pieces. No relationships between sizes are imported with the data.
The Graded Nest tool provides the ability to stack all same pieces of different sizes into a graded nest and relates the pieces as the same piece but different sizes. Define the Base size and size range to be used. See the Grading Chapter. Display the point numbers for each pattern piece using the Display Piece Attributes dialog box in the View menu. Make sure that the zero point to be used for each size is set to the same number. In the example below, all pocket pieces use point 1 as the zero point.
If the zero point for each size is not set to the same number, use the Start Point command in the Piece Menu. See the Piece Chapter. Click on the Graded Nest tool. Notice that the status line at the bottom of the screen prompts the user to select the Base size first. Click on point 1 of the medium sized pockets the base size. Click on point 1 of the small sized pocket. Click on point 1 of the large sized pocket.
The pocket pieces should now display as a graded nest. If the graded nest is not visible, press the F4 key on the keyboard. Grade Proportional Grade Proportional is used to apply grading on curved pattern edges. For example, proportional grading is commonly used on the hemline of a circle skirt or on scalloped edges. Click on the first point from which the proportional grade originates. In the example above, select point 3. Click on the last point from which the proportional grade originates.
In the example above, select point 1. Click on the point to receive the proportional grade. In the example above, select point 4. Next Point Use Next Point to select the next grading point in clockwise direction from the currently selected grading point.
This tool is used to select pieces, points, and line segments. Tip: Double click the Pointer tool to redraw the screen. Note: To access the Pointer tool without clicking on the Pointer icon, click the right mouse button one time. With the left button, select the Pointer tool from the pop-up menu.
A DSN file contains all the pieces necessary to make one complete garment or other sewn product. When the New tool is selected, the Make Rectangle dialog box displays by default.
Enter specific length and width values for the new pattern piece or select Cancel to bypass the Make Rectangle dialog box. The number of pieces in a DSN file is limited only by the amount of memory available on your computer.
Note: Refer to the File Chapter for more information. Note: SGS pattern files have the extension,. Note: The last directory where design files have been saved becomes the default directory for the Open and Save commands.
Use the Browse button to select a different directory. Save The Save tool saves the file displayed on screen to the current path under the current name, replacing the old file. If a new file has been created, but the new file has not been previously saved, a dialog box prompts for a file name to be entered.
Note: The DSN extension is added to the file name automatically. Print Use the Print Tool to activate the Print dialog box. Refer to the File Chapter for in depth information. Plot Use the Plot Tool to activate the Plot dialog box. Digitize Use the Digitize Tool to activate the Digitize dialog box. Select the Context Help tool and then click on any item on the screen to get information about the selected item.
Information regarding the selected item displays on the screen. Insert Toolbar The Insert Toolbar consists of tools used for editing pieces such as adding fullness, deleting elements from a piece, adding notches, seam allowances, pleats and more. Delete The Delete tool is used to delete points, notches, darts, and inner elements on a piece. When the tool is selected, the pointer changes to an eraser with a black dot on its end.
Tip: Be careful when deleting curve points as removing a point may cause the curve to look very different. Place the black dot on the eraser over the element to be deleted. Click the mouse button.
A dialog box pops up on the screen and asks if you are sure you want to delete. Click OK to complete deleting the element. Point On Use the Point On tool to add a point onto the perimeter of a piece. You can also decide on a point type when adding the new point.
Move the tool to the area where the point is to be added. If the Move Point dialog box is enabled, it allows the user to specify a distance from the previous or next point to place the added point. Tip: If the attributes are not changed, the point receives the same attributes of the last point selected.
Use the Point On tool to add points to an internal as well. Point Beside Use the Point Beside tool to add a point beside the perimeter of a piece. This tool changes the shape of the piece. When the point is added outside or inside the pieces perimeter, the line segment closest to the point snaps onto the point, changing the shape of the piece and breaking the original line segment into two line segments.
The diagram below illustrates an example. The Move Point dialog box displays, the user can specify a distance from previous or next point to place the added point. Notice that the shape of the piece changes based on where the point is placed. Notch Use the Notch tool to add a notch to a pieces perimeter. This tool provides an easy way to add or edit notches once the digitizing process is finished. A notch is a marking point positioned on the boundary of a piece and is used to accurately align one piece to another piece indicating how pieces are sewn together.
There are three parameters that define a notch location on the pieces boundary and the size of the notch. These parameters are depth, width, and angle. The Notchs parameters are defined and can be changed in the Edit Notch dialog box. Notches are also used in the PDS software to define stripe adjust points for stripe matching on the marker. Stripe adjust points are set in the Notch Attributes dialog box which is accessible through the Edit Notch dialog box.
See the subsection, Attributes below in the Edit Notch section. To Add a Notch: Select the Notch tool. Place the tool where the notch is to be applied. The Edit Notch dialog box displays allowing the user to specify the type, size, and exact placement of the notch.
Note: See the section below for more information on the Edit Notch dialog box. Click Apply. Then click Close. Chapter 2: Icons and Tool Bars!
Note: Corner notch direction is global command for all the notches in the DSN file! Note: All values displayed in the Notch Attributes dialog box refer to the base size. See also the Attributes section in the Edit menu. Note: You can crate as mach notches, with same attribute, as you need without clicking on the "Create" button in the crate notch dialog box.
Note that when you will click on the "cancel" button only the last notch will remove. To remove all the notches hold the CTRL key while clicking on the cancel button. The Reconnect Button is used to reset a notch to relate with the original point from which it was established. It is usually used in case the original point is deleted and a new grade point should be related to the notch. Note: The reconnect command is enabled only when the value in the proportional window is not between 0 and 1!
Using the reconnect command will change the notch link to relate to the nearest grading point with distance proportions in the normal range 0 to 1. Pieces may have more than one type of notch. Use the down arrow next to the Type box, to see a list of available notch types and to make the appropriate selection. Size The size box indicates the size piece for which information is currently displayed.
This information is only important if the pattern is graded. Depth Depth indicates the length of the notch. A typical notch depth is. Width Width indicates the width of the notch. Width does not apply to Slit notches also called I notches. Angle Angle indicates the angle of the notch from the line where the notch is placed. To apply a notch on the outside of a pattern piece, use an angle setting of degrees.
Other way to edit the notch angle, is using the mouse click. Click on the "Angle by mouse click" and click again on the general direction of the selected notch. It will be move to the click direction. Attributes The Attributes button activates the Notch Attributes dialog box.
This dialog box is used to establish parameters for an automatic cutter and to establish stripe adjust points when working with stripe, plaid, or repeated print fabrics. Parameters for the cutter include notch type: draw, cut, or punch. Additionally, this area is used to establish operational stops op stops for temporarily stopping an automatic cutter before or after cutting a piece. Tip: Under Commands: to prevent cutting the notch use Draw, to cut the notch use Cut, to cut the notch with a special head use Punch in Gerber cutters it will be the M68 command.
In the None mode the notch will not be plotted or cut. This mode is used in notches that are used for stripe adjust or OpStop the marker. Proportional When Proportional is checked, the notch is placed proportionally between two grading points before and after the notch. Note: See the Attributes section in the Edit chapter. From Previous When From Previous is selected, the notch is placed a specified distance from the previous grading point.
Note: It is possible to assign different positions and attributes to each notch on the piece perimeter. Note: Refer to the Attributes section in the Edit chapter. From Next When From Next is selected, the notch is placed a specified distance from the next grading point. See diagram above. Regrade Use Regrade to regrade and move a notch in case you have changed its position value in the previous three fields Proportional, From Previous, From Next have been made.
Regrade All Use Regrade All to regrade the notch on all sizes to follow the grade position of the current notch on the base size after changes in the previous three fields Proportional, From Previous, From Next are made. Copy to All Copy to All is used to copy the attribute of the current notch to all sizes proportional, from previous, from next.
Distance from Grading Points When this box is selected, all measurements originate from the previous or next grading point only. If this box is not selected, all measurements originate from the previous or next point regardless of whether it is a grading point or a non-grading point. Note: While this dialog box remains open, different notches may be selected and changed.
After each notch is changed, click the Apply button. No changes are implemented unless the Apply button is clicked. After editions are final, click Close to exit. Tip: To create a notch that is the same distance from a point for all sizes sometimes referred to as a notch with a tangent rule , use either the From Previous, or from Next options.
Seam Use the Seam tool to add seam allowance to piece. Note: Refer to the Seam section in the Piece chapter for more information. Either select a point on a piece indicating that seam allowance is to be added to the entire piece, or select the segment on the piece on which to apply seam allowance.
To select a single point for adding a constant seam allowance to the entire piece, point the Seam Allowance tool at a point on the piece and click the mouse twice. To select a segment or multiple segments, point the Seam Allowance tool at the first point and click the mouse, then drag the Seam Allowance tool to the last point of the segment and click the mouse.
Note: It is not recommended to choose a curve point as a start or end point for a seam. When the Point Attributes dialog box displays, enter the amount of the allowance in the Seam Width box at the lower left of the dialog box. If the seam allowance is added to the entire piece, select the appropriate corner type by clicking on the corresponding corner icon. The icons illustrate available corner types. To leave the corner types as standard corners, it is not necessary to make a corner selection.
Click OK after appropriate information is added. Note: If any changes are made to piece after the seam allowance is applied, press the F6 key to recalculate the seam values. Note: Refer to the Attributes Section in the Edit chapter for more information. Note: Negative or positive seam allowances may be applied depending on how a piece was created or digitized. Tip: To quickly see if seam allowance has already been applied to piece, select a point on the piece, and press the Enter key.
When the Point Attributes dialog box displays, notice the value in the Seam Width field. Delete Seam Use tool to delete seam from your pieces. Select Delete Seam tool. From Unseam dialog box select which pieces seam to delete. Use OK button to delete the seam from the selected pieces or use Cancel button to cancel to delete command. Dart Darts are based on four points. If the dart is digitized, the Start, Middle the overlap extension and End points are on the pieces boundary.
The fourth point is the apex of the dart and is digitized while defining the dart. Just below the apex, the drill hole should also be indicated.
The first point of the dart is placed on the pattern contour by pressing the letter D on the button digitizer. The second point is placed internally at the apex of the dart. The other two points are automatically inserted. Note: See the File Chapter for details on digitizing a dart. Tip: If a dart is not digitized during the digitizing process, it can easily be added to piece on the screen using the Dart tool. Click the left mouse button on the first point of the dart See the diagram below.
If points do not exist where the dart is to be placed, use the Add Relative command in the Edit menu. See the Edit chapter. Click the left mouse button again on the last point of the dart. The cursor automatically becomes the center point apex of the line created between the two selected points.
Drag the cursor internally to create the dart depth and click the mouse button a third time. After clicking the mouse button a third time the Dart Attributes dialog box will appear. Name Use name field to give a name for the dart apex point. Note: If your dart apex point as a name, you will be able to apply a grading rule by using Apply Rule by name command from grading menu for the dart apex without selecting the dart apex point.
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Season Wednesday Webinar Series. Tech-Textile Webinar Series. Spring Webinar Series. YKK Zippers. What are the minimum, recommended system requirements? What operating systems can Optitex run on.
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