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You are using an out of date browser. It may not display this or other websites correctly. You should upgrade or use an alternative browser. Thread starter Wreav Start date Dec 26, Wreav Sr Member. Since a majority of the other Pepakura Files are all but dead links Yes it's rather sad isn't it Thought I would bring back some of the old Pepakura files. Section 1: Predator Bio Helmets. File: Bio Masks. Last edited: Dec 27, Does any one knows where I can find the measurements for the plasma cannon from avpr or the sideshow piece.
Scott26pt2 New Member. This would be great if I could figure out how to use this download service. Sends me into an infinite loop of ads and I can't find the files anywhere on my computer after selecting the various download options. Scarface New Member. What program do I need to use these files? Pepakura designer. Thank you.
Need help with these files. Can somebody walk me through on the downloads? Set up a 4shared account. Was there a specific file you need? I may have it. Last edited by a moderator: Apr 9, I need the AVP chest armor and celtic bio mask template. I will check and get back to you. Slowly a nice smooth surface will be obtained. I cut a small length of PVC pipe at an angle to fit the helmet and form the laser sight. This was glued on with P38 and a fillet made and sanded so that the sight blended in to the rest of the helmet.
At this stage the helmet has been smoothed out and is ready for the small detail on the left side to be added. I used 'Milliput', a two part epoxy putty for this. I had a nagging doubt about the symmetry of the mask. I decided to lay a basic coat of paint down so that I could see if the errors were too great. The paint helps to unify the colour and show up any problems and imperfections. I decided to make the correction at this stage using filler.
I had already added the small detail to the left side of the helmet. This was done using some Milliput and a small sculpting tool. I added some hard sponge to the lower right jowl, then sanded this back to the general shape. Firstly I can add material and sand it back to the correct general shape before adding filler. Secondly it will help keep the weight down to an acceptable level. Once I was satisfied with revised sponge profile I covered it with filler and sanded it back smooth.
I've had quite a few enquiries as to how I paint my creations. For a metallic finish I generally start with a black undercoat, here I have used artists acrylic on the corrected section. The trick is to build up the colour in layers allowing for shading and highlights.
This will give 'depth' and more realism to the final work. Once the black has dried fully, the next stage is to 'dry-brush' with gunmetal grey. You can make up a good gunmetal using metallic silver with a little black mixed in. I'm using hobby acrylic paint for this. You need to get some cheap make up 'blusher' brushes. These are available from many retail outlets, but get the cheaper ones.
I generally use a 1" soft blusher brush for this work. Put a small blob of paint onto a piece of card and then load the brush from that using a dabbing action. Fill out the bristles with paint by using a circular motion on the card. Ideally you want very little, and almost dry paint on the brush.
If it is too wet you will get streaks which you don't want. Now use a very light circular application of the paint on to your work piece. The idea is that any recessed areas will not take paint, whilst those raised areas and details will pick up more pigment particles and therefore more paint.
The effect of this is to create shadow areas in the recesses and highlight areas on the raised parts. Take your time and build up the colour slowly. It takes a little practice but you soon get the hang of it. I gave mine two dry brushing with gunmetal the third image shows the results and you can still see the black undercoat join on the muzzle.
I followed this with two dry brush layers of silver to bring the highlights out even more. On each pass make the strokes lighter and lighter as you go. For the eye covers there are a few routes we could take. I have seen masks with a black mesh covering the eyes which seems to work well.
However I wanted a black shiny look to them. You could use a motorcycle helmet visor, these come in a range of colours as well as reflective metallic finishes.
I was given a piece of green welders replacement visor material grade 3 which looks black when fitted and can still be seen through quite easily. Since it was free I decided to use that instead. The problem is that we have to force the visor plastic to conform to the shape of the mask and stay in place whilst the glue dries. The inside of the eye slits did not have enough area of flat edge for the visor plastic to hold well.
If we cut the plastic big enough then we could find a method to clamp them and force some hot melt glue into the gaps forming a stable area. I cut a template out of white card, then copied this onto the welders visor material. The welders visor is not brittle so I found it easy to cut with a pair of stout scissors. I removed the protective film and then clamped the section inside the mask with a spring clamp.
Hot melt glues was then run into the gap forming a good strong seal and bond. I then repeated the operation for the other side. I will need to make a set of 'falls' for the model which will then hide her ears and make the whole thing look more like the original. Since this mask will be used for a stills shoot in the studio, the laser sight will not need actual lasers fitted, or even working LEDs. This makes life a little easier for me. It is assembled from 3 defunct LED lenses, a disk of plastic card and some strips and rod.
I simply made up the insert, then painted it and glued it into place. Aside from some tube connection points all the detailing is done. To complete the mask i gave the entire surface another dry brushing with bright silver. Then the shadow areas were given a blow over with black in the airbrush, the effect is very subtle so I've added an image with only the right side completed so you can see the difference.
Some final work with pastels and an over spray with cheap extra hold hairspray to seal it all in and the mask is completed as far as major construction goes. The inside will need fitting out with sponge and a strap, then a set of hair 'falls' will need to be made up, but essentially that's it.
Here are a few shots of the finished mask stage. It really need a back and some dreads to finish it off. I will post some of the final body painting once I get around to doing it.
I added a back to the mask using some old furniture foam. Some 'spikes' were added round the periphery of the brim. I then coated the foam in three layers of latex. The dreads are made from 'backer rods', a foam rod used in the building trade. The ends were heated a little and then rolled to form the tapers. Copper plumbing pipe beads were added, these help the backer rods to bend and hang properly. I then painted the backer rods with liquid latex with a little black acrylic paint added.
Finally I painted the back of the head and jowls. Reply 1 year ago. Question 2 years ago on Introduction. Answer 1 year ago. Reply 5 years ago.
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